'Mellow surf'

Persuaded by Si's text that surf would be 'mellow' today I went across to Newquay this morning with (some) conviction that I would try and improve. Looking down from road to Tolcarne beach surf did not look that big so I felt good.

After changing into wetsuits and walking towards the waters edge we saw one of the three surfers in at Tolcarne ride across a wave and I thought 'either that person is very small of the waves are bigger than they look'. Suffice to say the person was of average height and the wave was bigger than him (ok, 6-8ft face is not 'big' for a 'big wave surfer' or even a competent surfer but I am neither of the aforementioned).

Anyway, consoled by Si's comment that 'that was properly just a large set' I did put leash on and enter water.

15 minutes later I had made no significant progress in getting out back but had managed to drift towards rocks at Lusty Glaze edge of Tolcarne -discretion being the better of valour I gave up and let next wave take me back to shore (rocks). Si had come ashore so I gave him the thumbs up to signify I was ok (and indicate that I had meant to drift etc).

Left board on beach and re-entered water (far away from the rocks). Si beat me out back on his board - impressive effort - but I did manage to get out and enjoy swimming in some big clear waves. One managed wave to push me down further than I had dived and Si commented the same - adding that on the downward motion he had looked up and saw an expanse of water between and sky. Exhilarating...